Belgrade - A Box of Tricks

I've been a number of times to Belgrade, but it's always coincided with winter. Rain at best, snow mostly. And not the snow that we Brits typically complain about. No, Serbian snow falls by the foot, not inches - beautiful to fly into, scary to taxi-speed drive through and cold. Very cold. It's not a time of year for outdoor exploring, not without layers.

This trip, however, included sunshine and was such a delight to enjoy the beauty of Belgrade in warmer climes and bright evenings. Sunglasses were on, but my eyes were truly opened. Working in Neo Beograd and playing in the old city, it's a game of two very distinct halves, but a surprising box of tricks. 

Hotels in Belgrade are great. Keen rates for significant luxury. In New Belgrade they are popping up with frequency and, like their neighbouring architecture, they are creating a skyline of poured concrete high rise and finished with a millennium shine. The Hyatt Regency a stunning five star marbled pleasure, but I guess it could be a hotel in any city, simply from its same shine. The IN hotel, four star,  offers ample rooms and modern facilities but has down to earth Serbian charm.

Across the Ada bridge greyness is being restored to grandeur. Post iron curtain history is being redeveloped and is holding on to its cultural roots. This trip I visited the newly refurbished Metropol Palace, formerly the The Belgrade City Hotel, and a great of example of upcycling the best assets.

The old city is slowly regenerating. For every refurb there is a crumbling tower around the corner and you can sense the climb. Yet it has so many a hidden gems, unexpected and brilliant, every one.

Wining is outstanding. Watch this space, Serbian wine is the next big thing on your table. Dining is fantastic, from the kooky Kakalamba with its weird interiors and Serb cuisine to slick modern eateries. Best menu choices are the meat dishes, but vine leaves and paprika do not come more flavourfully stuffed and spiced than here! 

One of my favourites is the Kalemegdanska Terassa in Kalemegdan Fortress - stone walled prowess inside the surviving lookout that governed an ever-changing occupancy rule, on the confluence of the beautiful Danube and Save Rivers.

Just 20 mins from the city centre a self made pebble beach that boasts some of the cleanest swimming waters, lined with cool bars and restaurants and hot weather for locals to soak up the sun, nudist colony included!

Shopping is expensive, Serbia is not yet in the euro but it is not short of new shiny malls and there is a vast capacity for conferencing and concerts. The real strength of the city, the people. Incredible optimism, true sense of family, limitlessly accommodating and humble from a history of knocks that gives them a fighting spirit to get right back up and start again. I love Belgrade, I hope to go further to Montenegro and beyond. There is so much to give here and more people should enjoy it.



'Til next time, Pandora