Dublin - A City of Two Tales

Sometimes you can travel so much, you miss what is under your nose, on your own doorstep. June saw me traversing between the north and south of Ireland, a mix of timeout from a busy work schedule and true downtime with visiting friends, both giving me a double sided view of what's to be found in Dublin.

Dublin is as stereotypical as it gets. March 17th sees the largest in take of tourism of the full year, 2013 boasting almost 250,000 global visitors to the Fair City. Everyone is a little Irish on St Patricks Day. Many are a lot. 

But there are 364 other days of the year where the Irish Craic keeps rolling in Dublin. A student hub with the prestigious Trinity College, a weekend Mecca for hen and stag parties and any other excuse to celebrate rugby, see a gig or just hang out. Just follow the signs to Temple Bar. Doorway upon doorway of traditional Irish song, great seafood and the mandatory flow of the Black Stuff, Guinness. Morning to evening, there is always Craic.

But there is more to Dublin than just the melody of Van Morrisson and the tapping of Riverdance. Above the cobbled streets of sneaker wearing tourists there is a peppering of rooftop bars and eateries, draped in designer dress and high heels. More Jo Malone than Molly Malone. 

Dublin has a chic side. Start your day at the top of Grafton Street and meander through boutiques and trendy coffee shops. Get lost in labels as luxurious as London's big 3, in Brown Thomas, before a break for brunch in Powers Court or decadent drinks at the Vintage Cocktail Club. 

As the evening calls, there is a wealth of opulent sleeperies, if you know where to go. My favourites are the Dylan, the John Rocha palette of the Morrisson has just had a makeover, and my recent retreat in the velveteen luxe of the Fitzwilliam. Relax, unwind, party....or all 3.

But don't be afraid to blend the traditional with the modern. My first trip to the Guinness Storehouse has certified me in the secret pouring of the perfect pint of Guinness, a visit well worth making. A walk over halfpenny bridge will add the needed tourist snaps to your photo book. There is no shortage of all round authentic Irish hospitality to make you feel at home, whichever of the two tales you choose of the city so, explore it wisely.

'Til next time, Pandora.

Who Kildares, Wins

I'm not a lover of outlet stores. I mean, everyone loves a bargain, but there is just too must mayhem and disorder during sale time for me to enjoy it. Anyway, if something hasn't given me the calling at the start of the season, the chances that I really need or want it are probably slim.

So, I have avoided the call of the outlet village. Despite my draw to designer, I have preconceived images of out of date factory shops, glorified jumble sales. Not for me. 

Well, not until these recent weeks. My begrudging scepticism headed south of Ireland, to Kildare. A family break, that just so happened to have little nearby except Kildare Village, the irish contingent to the Chic Outlet Shopping® Villages by Value Retail, peppered across Europe's chicest cities. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, and all that...

I was surprised. Pleasantly so. I hadn't imagined New England-esque shop fronts, with floral displays and roomy sidewalks lined with luxury brands.

Last season, yes, but perfectly merchandised in size order, colour coded accessories and proper changing rooms. This was shopping with style. A step up from the average High Street, just marked down. 

Even dining was upmarket - forget the high street burger bar, Kildare Starbucks your coffee stop and wines and dines you, Italian-style, in the very cool L'Offcina.

Kildare had real potential, the proof would be in the purchasing, rather than the pudding. Let the shopping begin....

Nicole Fahri tailoring, shirts by Pink, summer dressing by French Connection. and perfect accessories by Anya Hindmarch. Even home got a makeover with new Nespresso and Le Creuset, and threadcount refresh from Sanderson.

I think the technical term is reformed retail character. I take back my outlet snobbery - Who Kildares, definitely wins. Big sister, Bicester, might be next. With the amount I saved on my designer decadence, I can indulge some more!

'Til next time, Pandora

Seduced in Seville

It's ironic that it has taken until now for me to explore Seville. I mean, I studied and lived in Málaga for a few years, blessed with the good fortune of the sun and sand of the Andalusian Costas as my back-yard. Yet never had i reached Seville. This trip was a long time coming.

Oddly, however, despite my proximity I didn't expect to find and feel what I did.
A city hopper, practically by trade, there are a number of iconic must-see cities that make up the magnets of every refrigerator door - Paris, London, Rome, Barcelona. Seville, possibly not. But it should be. This is a city you need on this list.

Seville totally seduced me like a secret love affair. A brief rendez-vous, in my already smitten Andalucía, every twist and turn of the city captured my heart and wooed me.

It's a city to get lost in - metaphorically it is mesmerisingly beautiful but, geographically, it is complex and vast. This is a trip to plan in advance, otherwise you risk missing some if the incredible sites to be discovered. With leisure, a minimum of five days and prepare to walk. Travel light, walking shoes, a sun hat and spf.

The architecture, whilst totally different, is as impressive as the Gaudí of Barcelona. 

Institutional landmarks, churches, cathedrals and simple streets span from Christian to Arabic to Gothic and the Jewish quarter, la Judaria, is a labyrinth of flamenco, crafts and the most amazing tapas hideaways. In fact, el tapeo is a cultural heritage that explores the best of Spanish and Andalusian cuisine, remarkably light on the wallet. You need 2-3 hours daily to interweave this into any one day's plans.

Lodgings are vast, from pensiones to paradores and designer hotels, there is something for everyone, and a few still house the original Arabic and Turkish baths and spas. I sought out el Gran Meliá Colón, recently refurbed and now a famous retreat for football teams and bull fighting legends. It didn't disappoint. Located in the heart of the city centre, equipped with the obligatory city view roof terrace and decadently appointed with layers of designer icons for Phillipe Starck.

Modern is at home in Seville. It reaches its extreme in the Setas, the controversial architecture that resides footsteps from the casa de la Duquesa de Alba. But bars, restaurants, hotels alternate between traditional rusticity to modern minimalism and the blend is stylish and chic - terracotta floors and hanging jamones on the ground, through to the sun strewn roof terrace of Eme, in touching distance of la Giralda.

For me, the creme de la creme of the sevillian sights, La Plaza de España - another unexpected mastery that carved a place in my heart, alongside la Sagrada Familia or Le palais de Versailles.

Tourism is booming, but without the tackiness of the Costas. Even the former Expo village has been developed to a new local living quarter that is an expression of modern Seville, just outside the city itself.

Seville is alive, vibrant, friendly, exciting. It was worth the wait, but it will definitely need a return.

'Til next time, Pandora

Belgrade - A Box of Tricks

I've been a number of times to Belgrade, but it's always coincided with winter. Rain at best, snow mostly. And not the snow that we Brits typically complain about. No, Serbian snow falls by the foot, not inches - beautiful to fly into, scary to taxi-speed drive through and cold. Very cold. It's not a time of year for outdoor exploring, not without layers.

This trip, however, included sunshine and was such a delight to enjoy the beauty of Belgrade in warmer climes and bright evenings. Sunglasses were on, but my eyes were truly opened. Working in Neo Beograd and playing in the old city, it's a game of two very distinct halves, but a surprising box of tricks. 

Hotels in Belgrade are great. Keen rates for significant luxury. In New Belgrade they are popping up with frequency and, like their neighbouring architecture, they are creating a skyline of poured concrete high rise and finished with a millennium shine. The Hyatt Regency a stunning five star marbled pleasure, but I guess it could be a hotel in any city, simply from its same shine. The IN hotel, four star,  offers ample rooms and modern facilities but has down to earth Serbian charm.

Across the Ada bridge greyness is being restored to grandeur. Post iron curtain history is being redeveloped and is holding on to its cultural roots. This trip I visited the newly refurbished Metropol Palace, formerly the The Belgrade City Hotel, and a great of example of upcycling the best assets.

The old city is slowly regenerating. For every refurb there is a crumbling tower around the corner and you can sense the climb. Yet it has so many a hidden gems, unexpected and brilliant, every one.

Wining is outstanding. Watch this space, Serbian wine is the next big thing on your table. Dining is fantastic, from the kooky Kakalamba with its weird interiors and Serb cuisine to slick modern eateries. Best menu choices are the meat dishes, but vine leaves and paprika do not come more flavourfully stuffed and spiced than here! 

One of my favourites is the Kalemegdanska Terassa in Kalemegdan Fortress - stone walled prowess inside the surviving lookout that governed an ever-changing occupancy rule, on the confluence of the beautiful Danube and Save Rivers.

Just 20 mins from the city centre a self made pebble beach that boasts some of the cleanest swimming waters, lined with cool bars and restaurants and hot weather for locals to soak up the sun, nudist colony included!

Shopping is expensive, Serbia is not yet in the euro but it is not short of new shiny malls and there is a vast capacity for conferencing and concerts. The real strength of the city, the people. Incredible optimism, true sense of family, limitlessly accommodating and humble from a history of knocks that gives them a fighting spirit to get right back up and start again. I love Belgrade, I hope to go further to Montenegro and beyond. There is so much to give here and more people should enjoy it.



'Til next time, Pandora

Costa del Authentic

Summer season in Spain...rows of beach loving tourists by day, bars of beer loving tourists by night. It's still there, if you want it, but I highly recommend a deeper delve into life by the Costas for an authentic and more fulfilling experience of Spain.

The affluent times of Costa tourism for the Costa del Sol have long gone. Beach loungers are empty 10 months of the year, street menus have dog-eared corners and hotel offers are a sad reflection the partial occupancy levels. City life, conversely, has got it's sexy back. And it's hot. 

Málaga, now a major cruise hub, is bustling with visitors. It's grown up, learned how to appreciate word of mouth and holiday wallets, and is giving the modern holiday maker what it needs.

In a country struggling to stay above the economic recession, Málaga has cleaned up its act. 

Gone are the days of peddling gitanos and stalking guitarists. Instead, al fresco coffee shops are more chic, staff multi-lingual, eateries have accomplished a blend of rustic Andalusian tradition with minimalist design and hotels have joined the cool-set of rooftop pool bars, boutique chic and chill out music. The good old piña colada of the eighties has been replaced with Mojito mixology, no umbrella. 

My chic sleep, loyally luxurious at Molina Lario, where all the above apply. The new kid in town, five star Vincci del Posada, is also getting tremendously good feedback and still with great introductory rates.

If you need a beach over a pool, the city has this but you are only ever 20 mins to the coast, if you get the calling.

Off the beaten track, visit the Caves of Nerja and overnight in Hotel el Carabeo, for a taste of tourism without the buffet dinner for the masses.

Inland, go to Ronda, eat tapas, visit the bull ring, eat more tapas and bask in mountainside sunshine. This is a taster, you'll already be thirsty for more. And more there is, in abundance.

I could write on southern Spain forever. It won my heart many years ago. It's time to let ooh la Paloma Blanca fly, discover the modern and stylish side to authentic Spain.

'Til next time, Pandora

Photos: Pandora Skies, Molina Lario

Hong Kong High

My first visit to Hong Kong took me to new heights. My second and third visit, I soared. This city gives me a high, the shopping leaves me on a high, the nightlife transports me to the high life. Hong Kong was, and still is, my New York rival. Pound for pound, or rather dollar for dollar, this is a championship fight.

I won't ramble about Manhattan. There is so much great going on there, it is a blog onto itself (...watch this space). This will always be a tale of two cities, each equally amazing for different reasons. There is no need for East to meet West, when you can have so much excitement from travelling between them both.

First impressions, driving into Hong Kong island over the Tsing Ma bridge - how many golden 'Made in' stickers have travelled from the tower toppling containers. Hong Kong means business, even before you've reached the city. 

My latest visit included a luxurious stay in the Island ShangriLa, welcomed like a princess and risen to highest happiness in a luxurious harbour view room, 56 floors up. There is a single eagle that soars around the harbour and I shared his outlook, swooping over Kowloon. Indoors, the Shangrila boasts the largest silk painting in their lobby, 16 storeys long, The Great Motherland of China drops down through the atrium into a Chinese garden, my personal art gallery from a glass elevator every morning and evening.

If you're not on an elevator in Hong Kong, you're on an escalator. The city is non-stop, and it is built to help you keep moving with it. Day to night, the escalators in the city centre move you from bar to bar, restaurant to restaurant, store to store like a video game. And there is plenty of treasure to collect along the way, with every new level you reach.

Shopping. Hong Kong knows how to shop. It's like the recession just forgot to visit here. Designer stores from home have gone extra-large. Über glitzy, luxuriously decadent, impossible to ignore. Collect, win, next level....

Fashion extends to food in Hong Kong, too. Which makes sense. You've just draped yourself in the latest season, accessorised with the latest bag, it makes sense to indulge in some haute-couture cocktails. And, in true Hong Kong high-life, the best wining and dining in the city are located double digit floors up from the ground, with roof terraces to make sure your hypnosis remains unbroken.

Armani prive, an opulent velvet cushion of red and tangerine surrounded in mirrors. The dark and seductive has a stairway to al fresco loungerino -cool music and even cooler exclusive collections of Moët and Bollinger.

Sevva, the hottest rooftop in the city, tucked above Charter Road and nestled in the middle of the financial power houses. Refreshing by day, enticing by night as the HK light show takes off around you, like a city-sized discotheque. Inside is even more eclectic - walls of foliage, Mad Hatter tea rooms, candle-lit sushi zens and gallery-worthy cake counters. This is social life as it should be lived, and it's addictive.

Across the harbour in Kowloon, look for the best seat in town to take in the infamous symphony of lights at Aqua. Three floors of glass, from cocktail bar to fine dining restaurant, is all that separates your from cinematic views of the skyline as it dances to the musical light show at 8pm.

There is so much to see in the city. Everything is sky-rise and the best way to appreciate it all is just like our eagle friend. Join the tourists at the Peak, ride the practically vertical tram to the top, and take in Hong Kong from its prime vantage point. The all-time high, top of the world in Hong Kong.

New York may never sleep but, in Hong Kong, you will never stop dreaming.

'Til next time, Pandora

Photos: Pandora Skies, Island Shangrila, Sevva

One Night in Bangkok and the World's your Oyster...

...three nights, and it's a fine line between being saint or sinner. There is everything in Bangkok, just like the movies show you, so what becomes of you really does depend on what you're after. I am the first to declare my undying love for Bradley Cooper but, flying home with a face tattoo wasn't the Bangkok I was looking to see. But you can. In fact, there is a Hangover II tour, designed to give you that very cultural enrichment, if you so desire.

No, not I. As obviously touristy as my path may follow, one cannot visit Bangkok without doing the rounds of the Buddhas and temples. They are exquisite, each and every one more magnificent than the next, from the holiness of the tiny but precious Emerald Buddha to the 46m-long gold-covered Reclining Wat Pho.

My show stopping moment of the tourist trek was the Grand Palace. Golden, glittering, glamourous, godly and gracious. I was wowed into silence. The reverence consumes you, you really do find yourself in a deeper state of contemplation.

How do you top that? Halfway through day one, and surrounded by street sellers trading human teeth, I was afraid I might soon be resorting to the back street block buster tour bus. 

But I had my own palace to return to, the Shangrila Bangkok, like a real-life palace for mere mortals. Just as much bling, layers of luxury, incredible service.

Breakfast by the Chao Phraya river to start your day, watching Bangkok come to a commuting life on boats and barges. Relax pool-side for spa and massage, or cool down as dusk drops with a moonlit dip in the infinity pool, to a backdrop of the impressive city skyline.

After dark, take to the rooftops. Yes, Bangkok has grown up and is playing with the cool kids. There is rooftop cocktail scene to challenge Manhattan, restaurants that will blow you away - Sky bar at Sirocco hangs 63 floors above Bangkok and is the world's tallest bar. It's so cool, its hot, but humidity hot, so think about your wardrobe to stay chic in the heat.

By day, step out of the city. A tour guide can coordinate some great cultural sightseeing. My favourites, the floating market at Damnoen Saduak. 

This is Thailand as you see on travel shows and it's exciting and enticing. Ok, its gridlocked with boats of floating tourists, but it's unashamedly great and you can really get your barter on.

Next stop, the tiger sanctuary. This left me forlorn. I can't quite get to grips with the fact (or fiction) that there is no sedation here. How can I really hand stroke fully grown carnivores? I can only hope the buddhist monk carers are doing this for the right reasons, but I'm not convinced the amazing photo opps don't have a slightly less spectacular story.

Lastly, my trip into history. Ride the train around Death Railway - phenomenal views of the stunning countryside and such an experience winding over Hellfire Pass. This and walking across the bridge over the river Kwai - these are moments that will stay with you, and to be just a few hours outside of Bangkok you really get to see more of the Thai countryside and people.

A amazing city, better than I might have given it credit for. A city of many shades, one night in Bangkok is just not going to be enough to be your oyster.

'Til next time, Pandora

Photos: Pandora Skies and Sirocco

Ladies Wot Lounge

5am...here starts a day in the life of the Jetset. Monday morning redeyes, train and taxi transfers, airport security, airplanes, hotels. Now and again, albeit an exception rather than a norm, there is a chance to step outside and visit the latest stamp in your passport but, in general, it's pretty much always on the go.

So, it's no surprise that a Jetset a lounge is her (and his) castle. Just as we seek out the perfect hotel retreat overnight, the lure of the airline lounge one of the most important pitstops of the travelling day.

Growing to Gold is a status symbol of comfort, moreso than standing. Every tier-step of airline loyalty takes you closer to the next level of elite that allows you, even if only for an hour before flying, to catch up yet simultaneously unwind, far from the maddening crowd.

Soft seating, mood lighting, working wifi, snacks and soft drinks, not so soft drinks, champagne and freshly cooked meals - this is the baseline standard. The magic ingredient, the beauty of silence.

Shhhhh...listen to it, pure unadulterated quietude.

Like everything, there are some that go the extra mile. Even the elite has a wish list - reach Gold Elite status with Etihad Airways and upgrade to First Class lounging in international hubs, silver service fine dining, cigar rooms, sleeping pods, Apple TV and private Six Senses Spa.

A makeover for Cathay Pacific in Hong Kong has added champagne bars and fine dining, with personal cabanas to The Wing First Class Lounge. Minimalist chic and a new level of luxury.

Boutique bliss decorates the London British Airways Galleries Lounge - spacious common rooms with seat side power supplies, coffee bars, water bars, wine bars and the chandeliered Champagne Gold Bar. A luxurious Elemis day spa caters to any deep relaxation and pamper you might just need to top up your downtime.

Lounging jewels for London Heathrow and JFK with Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse - expect all the design and funk you know Virgin to offer, and more. Bose music stations from Jacobsen styled egg chairs, deli bars and champagne bars, virtual gaming and in-lounge salons and Cowshed spas.

A life in the skies is busy, bustling, brilliant.

But every jetset go, needs a solace to jet set slow.

'Til next time, Pandora

Photos: Pandora Skies, Virgin Atlantic, Cathay Pacific

A View to a KL

This might cause some confrontation, and I don't mean to offend, but I'm afraid to say that my visit to Kuala Lumpur underwhelmed me. I had visited Singapore first, some time prior, so I might have had a heightened expectation to get more of the same from KL. I didn't.

KL left me wanting more. Not more from excitement, but more from the 'Is this it?' perspective. I mean, it was good, it just wasn't great. 

KL Tower was tired, unkempt. Even the poor donkeys forced to trek people at the entrance were ready to roll over and sleep. The markets were too much on the wrong side of knock-off for my liking, historic landmarks were a check the box off the map, but lacked presence. Even the Royal Palace was sleepy. It was like I had found the Marmite of Asia.

I needed some bling. Some pizzazz to turn my tourist glass to half-full. Cue Petronas Towers. Cue all it's sky scraping shininess and shoppingness. Now we were talking. I'm usually a creature of culture and prefer a little heritage to complement my love of über modernity but, being blatantly honest, this was the one thing that impressed me in KL.

As luck would have it, my now half-full glass was practically overflowing with Petronas, courtesy of a stay in the KL Traders Hotel. Deluxe Tower living, bang opposite Petronas themselves, it's like KL could sense this was my sweet spot and decided to bathe me in it. 

And bathe I did, right on the top floor cocktail bar swimming pool. Trust me, sipping martinis to a backdrop like this is something you will not forget. Food, service, comfort, design - Traders KL has all the standards you expect from the Shangri-la group, but definitely leads the way for the Traders hotel portfolio.

Day 2 needed more than bling. I was thirsty for culture and escaped the city in search of some real Malaysia, to Bata Caves. This is a must-see if you are in the city. Climb to the temples in the caves, find your inner sanctum, you might even play with some mean cobra snakes. It's that eclectic.

So, I'm glad I visited KL, but it's a one off for me. I will never forget sleeping eye to eye with Petronas. The rest, I possibly shall.

'Til next time, Pandora

Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL
Photos: Pandora Skies

My Singapore Fling

For years I flew long-haul to Asia with Singapore Airways. It's fabulous, more than fabulous - their economy is pretty special, to start with, but their business class is like having your front room in the skies. These seats are big enough for two, you know the kind for canoodling in the back row of the cinema? ( ....do people canoodle anymore?)

Anyway, fly with Singapore Airlines, then prepare to relish in the joy of Changi Airport. Every cinema surround sound, sunflower garden, coy karp, designer shopping, helter-skelter slided square inch of it. It's insanely good. So, if this is the airport, surely the city is something else?

Everybody should visit Singapore. It's like the Gattaca of airport hub destinations. Clean streets bustling with a palette of fast moving, everyone from everywhere people. For the tourist, there's a dabble of history but a wealth (I really mean wealthy) of new, shiny, designer everything. You don't need long to explore it, but it's a weekend trip really worth doing.

All the big hotels are there, of course, but I went with my heart, for boutique. An all-inclusive boutique, a relatively new concept, well located at the start of the shopping Mecca of Orchard Road. The Quincy is qool - rooms are tiny, but only at the compromise of a free minibar, sky high infinity pool, all inclusive meals and bar service, and a decor full of bling, even in the bathrooms. Being honest, a weekend in Singapore is not designed for bed time.

The core of the modern sight-seeing is by the Marina - you must take the ride to the top of Marina Bay Sands Hotel, these are the best views over the city to lunch in awe. Even better if you swim life on the edge at their incredible infinity pool.

On the ground - Lamborghini, Maserati, Ferrari...take your pick, four-wheeled affluence topped only by the F1 pits beside it.

Connected to the Marina Bay Sands is an infinity of illustrious designer shopping with waterfalls and waterways, and you must explore the amazing Louis Vuitton Island Maison - whether you go there by bridge, boat to the jetty, or travelator, is up to you. Just practise your Wow face.

From the other side of the bay, the stunning Fullerton Hotel is great for cocktails or tea, and you can catch the original Merlion statue. Stay to 8pm, you even get the Marina Sands music and light show (it's no Hong Kong harbour, but it's cool).

By now, it's time for some serious history making. Pull up a stool, these are the chic seats. Action your best raised eyebrow and indulge, and it is a wonderful indulgence, in the real thing Singapore Sling, at Raffles Hotel. There are select places around the world where I have a moment...this was one, a moment you will savour forever.

By night, make 2 stops - chinese street food on Smith Street, and hunt down the fried stingray. Seriously, where have you been all my life? Then hit Clarke Quay - clubs, pubs, music, shops....it's a bit ex-pat, but it's where the night is.

I'm not a lover of theme parks, but if it's your thing then a trip to Sentosa is short and you get a full on fix of proper built up American fun-time, with proper flinstone-esque rebuilds of the Merlion and beach huts.....I did it, I'm not proud of it, but at least I can pass it on.

So, my 48 hour Singapore fling is a secret, no more. Tourist adultery, shopping adultery...trust me, you'll find how the sin got into Singapore.

'Til next time, Pandora

Quincy Hotel, 22 Mt Elizabeth, Singapore
Photos: Pandora Skies, www.stayfareast.com